The temple is home to 3,300 Buddha statues


[GIVE IT A GO]
During my time in Korea, I have encountered countless Buddhist temples, pausing to admire the architecture and absorb the serenity of what I knew was a sacred place. Yet, I had never really understood what I was seeing, let alone been giv 바다이야기무료 en a behind the scenes glimpse into life within a temple.
Such is the case for many foreigners.



Traditional Korean architecture as seen at Bo 릴게임골드몽 ngeunsa Temple, Gangnam District, southern Seoul [ALICIA CARR]


Bongeunsa Temple, the second largest temple in Seoul, sits in the heart of the city. Nestled between th 검증완료릴게임 e Coex mall and the bustling streets of Gangnam, it lies directly along the path many tourists walk during their visits. Temple stay manager Chae Min-seok said that Bongeunsa gets an average of 1,000 야마토게임 foreign visitors every day. But most just stop for a quick look and then continue on with their day, unaware of what lies inside.
“It is a pity that they just pass through,” Chae explained. 골드몽릴게임릴게임 “We want them to really experience Buddhism.”
To better facilitate that, Bongeunsa Temple will launch their new “Bong-pass” temple stay program for foreigners in March. It will cost only 5,000 won ($3.40) and is designed for flexibility, particularly for tourists visiting the Bongeunsa Temple without a plan or a preexisting booking. The two-hour program, operating every Tuesday, will include the opportunity to tour the temple, experience a tea ceremony and take part in meditation — all of which I would be testing out.
As I arrived, I walked through a colorful gate adorned with traditional painting. There were some small shops and a cafe where visitors lingered at the entrance. It was busy, but peaceful.
Venturing further into the temple grounds, the shift in atmosphere was striking. Minutes earlier, I had been navigating the streets of Gangnam, surrounded by crowds, noise and constant motion. Bongeunsa, in stark contrast, offered a pocket of serenity within the chaos. And, to my surprise, you could barely hear the noises of the city just beyond the walls. I drifted through the courtyards in a near trance, until the sudden realization that I actually had somewhere to be pulled me back to reality.



The temple grounds at Bongeunsa Temple, Gangnam District, southern Seoul [ALICIA CARR]


After asking a friendly staff member at reception where I could find the temple stay programs, I was led to a charming hanok (traditional Korean house) near the back of the temple. I was greeted by Bongeunsa's temple stay manager, Chae, who took his shoes off and went inside, urging me to do the same.
It was at this point I became painfully aware of my poor footwear choice. Unlike in most Western cultures, removing your shoes before entering a building is standard practice, and the temple was no exception. Unfortunately for me, my Nike sneakers were laced tightly to my feet and entirely uncooperative. While Chae had slipped his shoes off with ease, I wrestled with mine in quiet defeat, as he watched on, awkwardly waiting for me. Let this be a lesson: If you plan on participating in a temple stay, please wear shoes that can be slipped on and off with ease.
We sat down inside and I was given some basic information about what to expect from the program. Chae spoke fluent English and explained that the team of majority foreigner volunteers running the program would be fluent as well.
There was a packed schedule of things to do, but also a degree of flexibility. Participants could take their time and do each activity on their own terms within the two-hour time frame. We decided to begin with the temple tour and headed back outside — where I was once again reminded of my unfortunate selection of footwear.
Once I wrestled my shoes back on, we started the tour right back where I had first entered at the temple gate. To the left sat the temple stay information center. It was a small office, not yet in operation, where tourists would eventually be able to purchase their Bong-passes.



Offerings of flowers and water at Bongeunsa Temple, Gangnam District, southern Seoul [ALICIA CARR]


Ahead of me, I watched as locals approached, bowing to the four gods at the entrance which were said to protect the temple from outside evil. Offerings of flowers, water and rice were placed at their feet. The flowers were dying and the water frozen solid — a striking contrast between ritual devotion and the harshness of winter.
Chae joked that the bags of rice that were left as offerings were then eaten by the staff. Only, it turned out he wasn't joking. I was a little stunned, but also amused.
We continued on to the largest building on the temple grounds, the main Buddha hall which is home to 3,300 Buddha statues. It was open to the public as a space for prayer, worship and reflection, but upon stepping inside I felt like an intruder, as though I had wandered into something not meant to be interrupted.
The room was dimly lit and washed in an orange glow as light reflected off of the hundreds of Buddha statues lining the walls. Near the front, a monk sat facing away from us, reading scripture aloud in a steady rhythm. Around me, people sat on mats and thin cushions. Some were listening quietly, others were in a posture of prayer and a few were even reading scripture of their own. Chae explained to me the purpose of the hall and its history. There was an undeniable sense of peace and stillness which filled the space. It felt like we were a world away from the streets of Gangnam just outside.
Even wandering through courtyards between the buildings, I was stunned by the contrast. Tranquil gardens and traditional architecture filled the foreground, while beyond them, skyscrapers rose abruptly into view. The scene felt like a study in juxtaposition.



The contrast between the temple grounds and the towering skyscrapers beyond was striking. [ALICIA CARR]


Following the tour, we circled back to the temple stay hanok for a tea ceremony. While exploring the temple grounds and learning about its history had been fascinating, I was grateful for the chance to escape the cold. We drank freshly-brewed tea, which warmed me from the inside, accompanied by cookies and mini bungeoppang (Korean fish-shaped pastry).
While I was on my own for this program, Chae explained that the time was designed to be a social experience, giving tourists the opportunity to talk, share impressions and connect with fellow travelers.



The tea ceremony at Bongeunsa Temple, Gangnam District, southern Seoul. [ALICIA CARR]


I finished the last of my tea and took a snack for the road as we moved into a large room next door. The lights were off, leaving the space lit only by the afternoon sun filtering through sheer curtains and casting a soft, moody glow. The room was nearly empty, with the exception of a bookcase holding some Korean books and board games and a projector screen displaying simple instructions for meditation.
I grabbed a few cushions from a cupboard by the door, settled onto the floor, and began to quietly count through the meditation. Sitting there in silence, legs crossed in what we as kids used to call “crisscross candy floss,” I was feeling a bit awkward — and a little bit like I was back in primary school.
Eventually, my mind stopped wandering and my thoughts began to settle. I was able to relax into the exercise, focusing only on my breath and the quiet count unfolding in my head.



The meditation space in the temple stay hanok at Bongeunsa Temple, Gangnam District, southern Seoul. [ALICIA CARR]


By the time the session ended, I felt lighter than I had when I first walked through the temple gates.
The city’s chaos still hummed somewhere beyond the walls, but inside Bongeunsa, there was a sense of calm that lingered long after the meditation ended. I was also walking away with a deeper understanding of the temple, its history and the practice of Buddhism itself. What struck me most was how accessible this could be: It wasn’t an experience reserved for monks or longtime practitioners. Anyone could step off the streets of Gangnam and experience it for themselves.
As I got my sneakers back on and stepped back out into the afternoon bustle, I carried with me a newfound appreciation for and better understanding of life behind the temple gates.
BY ALICIA CARR [kjdculture@joongang.co.kr]